My Dad was not a cursing man but when he walked the cornfields and saw corn smut it would bring out his choice words. Now, people eat the stuff.
Yep, I am talking about the gnarly, grey-black corn fungus that grows on stalks of corn. It’s correct name is huitlacoche, pronounced Weet-La-Ko-Chee, and it is considered a delicacy in Mexico and is finding its way into up-scale restaurants right here in the United States. It is normally referred to as “corn truffles,” “corn smut,” “corn fungus,” or “devil’s corn.”
It is actually an infection that United States farmers and crop scientists have spent years trying to eradicate. Corn growers, along with the federal government, have spent millions of dollars and years’ worth of time trying to develop smut-resistant strains of corn. They have only been partially successful.
It is a fast-moving blight that can wipe out five to ten percent of a crop. The black, dusty spores from it can gum up farm machinery. Corn kernels become infected with it when the corn is in the silk stage. The kernels swell to golf-ball size and become discolored. For those that want, they can be harvested two to three weeks after infection.
The irony is that, as much as it is a scourge to farmers, it can sell for more than the corn it ruins. Researchers at the University of Wisconsin convinced a group of farmers to deliberately infect their fields with this fungus in 2007 as an experiment and then harvest it. The result was that one ear of huitlachoche cost 41 cents to produce and sold for $1.20 whereas an ear of sweet corn cost ten cents to produce and sold for a few cents per ear. Chefs today pay $20 or more per pound for this delicacy.
The Aztecs in Mexico intentionally infected their corn crop by scratching the base of the corn stalk with a soil-smeared knife. Here in the Midwest, hail damages the stalks of corn and the scratches lets the spores in. This fungus can live up to three years in the soil. There has been a dedicated corn smut underground in the United States for decades in our country.
So, what is the attraction to eating something so gross looking? It sure must taste better than it looks!
It is mainly served in gourmet restaurants and those who like it describe its taste as “both nutty and earthy with a hint of fruity sweetness.” According to the Food Chemistry Journal, it is packed with unique protein, minerals and other nutrients.
One of those nutrients is Lysine, one of the essential amino acids that the body requires but cannot manufacture. We need it to fight infections and strengthen bones. Regular corn has basically none but corn smut is loaded with it. Huitlacoche is also loaded with beta-glucans, the soluable fiber that gives oatmeal its cholesterol cutting power.
Technically, it is a vegetable rather than a fungus. Although usually eaten raw, it can be canned and frozen. Heat turns it dark. It is often used like mushrooms in sauces and sautéed for its earthy flavor. It can be pureed with cream as a sauce for steak or it can be made into a flan for dessert.
In Mexico they make thick corn patties filled with chopped huitlachoche, onions and corn kernels. Also, huitlacoche-stuffed chicken breasts and quesadillas are popular.
If you are so inclined to get in on this profitable market, the perfect conditions to grow huitlacoche are a wet spring followed by a dry summer and then more moisture. A soil high in nitrogen also encourages its growth.
As for me, I am usually game to try new things, but count me out on this one. The “fungus among us” is not up my alley.
CORN TRUFFLE QUESADILLAS
2 tablespoons butter
½ onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped
5 leaf (blanks) fresh epazote leaves
1 pound huitlacoche
Pinch of sea salt
10 (six inch) yellow corn tortillas
1 pound Oaxaca cheese, separated into strings
Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat; stir in onion, garlic, jalapeno pepper, and epazote and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir corn truffles into onion mixture; cook and stir until truffle liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and keep warm.
Heat a large griddle or skillet over medium heat until hot. Moisten both sides of two tortillas with water and place them, stacked together, onto the hot griddle; cook until the bottom tortilla is crisp, about 2 minutes. Flip the stacked tortillas and cook the other tortilla until crisp, about 2 minutes. Separate the two tortillas; place them separately, uncooked side down, onto the hot griddle. Cover the crisp side of one tortilla with 1/5 of the Oaxaca cheese; place 1/5 of the corn truffle mixture over the cheese, then lay the crisp side of the second tortilla on top to cover the truffle mix.
Cook, turning once, until both tortillas are crisp and cheese is melted, about 3 minutes; repeat with remaining tortillas, cheese and corn truffle mixture. Cut each quesadilla into four wedges to serve.