A STORY OF PIE

 

For many of us, our favorite memories include eating pie at our grandma’s house. Growing up, there always seemed to be a pie cooling on the windowsill. Even my mother’s generation followed the same tradition, that a meal just wasn’t complete without pie.

This delectable dessert is about as American as you can get. Even my hometown of Union City, MI, has a sign on every street as you enter town proclaiming that this quaint village is “A slice of American pie.” A friend and I even have a friendly rivalry because whoever bakes one first, the other one knows she will soon have to follow because our guys talk and when one of them gets pie, the other one feels so entitled.

This is a story of pie. I have made countless but this time when I made a butterscotch pie, I got a surprise lesson in shortening to go along with the story behind butterscotch pie for me.

Butterscotch is Ron’s favorite kind of pie. This time when he asked for it, he threw me for a loop. “Grammy always made her crusts out of lard, can’t you try one like that?” he asked.

Lard. No one uses lard anymore, it’s so bad for you. Can you even buy it anymore? If so, where would you find it?

 

Lo and behold, the local butcher shop did have their own lard that they had rendered. So, I decided to get their smallest package and try it. However, their smallest package was four pounds. What was I going to do with four pounds of rendered and clarified pork fat…make pies, of course!

 

 

In this day and age, most folks use vegetable shortening for their crusts even though there are a few diehards who still use butter. I had a few surprises in store when I did a little research to see exactly how lard, vegetable shortening and butter compare when it comes to making pie crusts.

Lard has half as much saturated fat as butter but double that of olive oil. Crisco and other partially hydrogenated shortenings have trans fats which contribute to heart disease like saturated fats were originally thought to do. Yep, things in the pie crust world have changed a bit. In a big reversal of opinion, Harvard Medical School now states that there is not enough evidence to show that saturated fat raises the risk for cardiovascular disease. Also, using polyunsaturated fats helps to reduce the risk.

The body needs some fat to function, it’s the various kinds that make the difference. To start with, fats are either saturated or unsaturated. Saturated are mostly solid at room temperature and include fatty pieces of meat, some pork and chicken, dairy products like cream, whole milk, butter, cheese, shortening and coconut and palm oils.

Unsaturated are liquid at room temperature and there are two types of these. Monounsaturated fats are good for you. These are your oils such as olive, peanut and avocado and also includes most nuts and seeds.

The other kind are the polyunsaturated fats which the body needs to function, for muscle movement and blood clotting. There are two kinds of these, the omegas, which the body doesn’t produce on its own.

Omega 3 fatty acid is good for heart health and includes fatty fish like tuna, salmon, sardines, trout, mackerel, herring and oysters. It can also come from plants such as ground flax, flaxseed oil, soybeans, walnuts, sunflower seeds, chia seeds and hemp seeds.

Omega 6 fatty acids are inflammatory and most of us already consume enough of them. They are found in some soy, and oils like canola, safflower, soybean, sunflower, walnut and corn.

Unlike previously believed, lard is not solely saturated fats, but it also contains a good amount of unsaturated fats. In reverse thinking, lard is now considered one of the healthier options for shortening. It is not vegan or vegetarian but it is dairy-free.

There are two types of lard, fresh and shelf-stable. Fresh is simply rendered pork fat. It is a single, un-processed ingredient which is as natural as it gets. It has zero trans fats. I remember when our family butchered hogs as a kid, we would stand around the big butchering kettle as the pork fat was rendered down to lard. We would scarf up the little pieces that fell off and got crispy known as cracklins.

Shelf-stable, the second type of lard, contains hydrogenated fat (trans fat) to preserve freshness. This is the one that sets on grocer’s shelves so, by far, fresh is the healthiest and can be found at local butchering shops.

The very best lard for baking is leaf lard, a hard white fat that comes from around a pig’s kidneys. After rendered, it has almost neutral flavor and scent and adds richness and lightness to pastries.

Lard, by far, makes the flakiest pie crust because fat melts away to leave little air pockets that lend to flakiness and lard has particularly large fat crystals that leads to a flakier crust. Skeptical at first, I was amazed at how much difference there was in my crust made from lard as opposed to the ones made with vegetable shortening.

Lard also has a high smoke point so it can be used at high temperatures without issue, making it a great candidate for frying. Europeans loved their lard so much that they used to spread it on toast like butter. Not sure I would go that far!

Lard is definitely making a comeback as folks are getting away from highly processed foods and getting back to natural. It got its bad reputation in the 1900’s when vegetable shortening came on the scene. Big brands tried to oust lard with their aggressive marketing campaigns to reign in more dollars.

Vegetable shortening does have its place if you want a decorative crust because it holds its shape better because of its higher melting point.

My grandmother would be proud that I am sold on returning to lard for pie crusts. Now, back to the butterscotch filling. It is ironic that butterscotch was Jim’s favorite pie and it is also Ron’s. However, the hunt for the best butterscotch has been a long and different road in both cases.

Jim swore that his mother made the filling from scratch even though we didn’t have her recipe. Being a truck driver, every time he stopped at a restaurant that served the pie, he would get the recipe and I would try it. Without fail, he would try a bite and say it wasn’t it. Finally, an Amish gal asked if we ever used a box mix with whole milk. Lo and behold, that was the “from scratch” recipe that his Mom used!

So, when Ron asked for butterscotch pie, I made it the same way; box mix with whole milk. He immediately knew it wasn’t the homemade butterscotch pie that he was used to. Back to square one…again!

 

So, my Aunt Sharlene gave me her recipe that was her mom’s homemade butterscotch and that is what Ron was used to. Hence, we think we have the perfect butterscotch pie and crust recipe. The perfect pie crust is credited to Patsy Orns and the butterscotch filling is from Sharlene Brueck. Enjoy!

 

 

 

PERFECT PIE CRUST

 

2 cups flour

1 tsp salt

2/3 cups Crisco (or lard)

1/3 cup milk

 

This makes enough crust for a double crusted pie. Cut flour, salt and Crisco together. Add milk to make dough, roll out to fit pie tin. (Cut recipe in half for the buttescotch)

 

BUTTERSCOTCH FILLING

 

4 large eggs, separated at room temperature                      pinch of salt

½ cup flour                                                                                          ¼ cup butter

1 cup packed brown sugar                                                            2 tsp vanilla

3 cups milk                                                                                         

 

Beat egg yolks and half cup milk then add remaining milk, flour, sugar, salt and butter. Cook on medium heat until it bubbles. Cool slightly, add vanilla. Cool and put in cooked pie shell.

 

MERINGUE

 

4 egg whites

½ cup sugar

 

Beat egg whites until soft peaks form then gradually add sugar and beat until stiff. Spread to edges of filling. Bake 350* for 15 minutes or until golden brown.

 

 

WELCOME WINDOW BOXES

 

They are pretty, add charm to a house, are easy to maintain and are versatile. What’s not to love? I’m talking about window boxes.

I have always loved them although I have never had them. They just seem to add so much to a place and give it that “homey” feeling. Personally, I have always thought that they make any home look like a cottage which, in turn, makes me think of slower paced vacations at the lake.

Window boxes have a long history behind them. They started out in Europe and the idea traveled to America with the early settlers. They have been dated to early Rome where it was common to cultivate cottage gardens for food, medicine and religious uses. Folks lived in tiny homes, many on top of one another where there was no space for gardening. Window boxes provided an economical way to grow food. Today, they have evolved into growing decorative flowers and more.

The nice thing about window boxes is that they bring the outside in. Usually, you can see the fruits of your labor from inside the house which always makes it a little more cheerful inside while also enjoying them while you are outside. Being part of the house, they are easy to water and fertilize also.

Window boxes are ways for anyone to be able to enjoy a little nature. Whether you live in the country or the city, there is always room for a window box!

They can be made out of almost any material and can reflect your personal taste. Wood is usually the material of choice. It looks natural and looks like it is part of the home. It is also easy to install, just take care not to fasten the boxes too tightly to the siding. No matter what the material, leave an inch or two so moisture does not build up between the box and the house.

 

Though wood is the natural choice, take stock of your place and don’t be afraid to think outside of the box. If you have a picket fence around your yard, window boxes made of picket fence tie the whole place together. If you live in an older home and have corbels, why not add some of those under the boxes to give the whole home a colonial look? Have a wrought iron gate? Make the window boxes out of wrought iron to match.

 

 

Or, you can go for broke and do something wild and crazy and entirely different from your other décor. Lattice makes nice looking boxes. Many use galvanized tubs. These shiny boxes fit any style home and draw your eye to the boxes directly. On the other hand, you can use old pallets to make a box or regular wood painted black. These ideas are simple and your attention is drawn to the contents rather than the box itself.

If you want something a little less permanent without disturbing your siding, you can make stand-up window boxes. These are much like raised planting beds but are taller to allow the contents to grow just at windowsill level. It all depends on personal taste.

Whichever style you choose, make sure you use some type of liners to hold the soil in and also have drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain out.

 

Window boxes don’t require a lot of work either to install or maintain, if done properly. Once installed, here are a few tips for filling them:

 

*PAY ATTENTION TO DIRECTION. Some folks put window boxes only on the front of their homes while others want it uniform and put them on all four sides. Naturally, you want all the contents to be the same so they all look connected.

 

However, you may want to re-think this strategy since all of the boxes will not receive the same lighting. Remember, shade-loving plants’ leaves get scorched with the high and hot afternoon light when they face south and west. On the other hand, plants that love the sun grow tall and leggy when facing north.

 

*WINDOW BOXES AREN’T JUST FOR FLOWERS. Everyone thinks flowers when it comes to window boxes. However, if it grows, it can probably go in a window box, with your only limiting factor being size. Think miniature for your favorite plants. If you love marigolds or zinnias, put the dwarf ones in, not the two-foot-tall ones.

Don’t forget about your vegetables and herbs. They make great contents for window boxes. Imagine, just opening the window and snipping a bit of sage, thyme or chives. The same goes for lettuce,  cherry tomatoes and kale.

Depending on how big your box is, you may be able to include vegetables and herbs mixed with some flowers for color. Add marigolds to lettuce and cherry tomatoes for a splash of color. Adding trailing vines always makes a box look better.

Don’t forget bulbs. Planting miniature iris, hyacinth and gladiolus bulbs along with some annuals will give you different heights and colors of flowers at different times of the year.

 

*POTS. To make life a little simpler and easier, you can put pots of flowers, herbs, etc. in the window boxes. This is an alternative to adding dirt and digging out the old after the season has ended. You can also change out the contents more often if you are so inclined to do so.

By choosing pots slightly shorter than the height of your window box, no one will ever know that the boxes themselves are not planted directly.

 

*PLANT CHOICES FOR SUN. Some good choices for boxes receiving a lot of sun are dusty miller, lavender, marigolds, miniature roses, ornamental pepper, zinnias, salvia and rosemary.

Choose vines like sweet potatoes, nasturtium, peppermint-scented geranium, wave petunias, thyme and sweet marjoram.

 

*PLANT CHOICES FOR SHADE. Choose upright astilbe, coleus, English daisy, hostas, impatiens, Johnny-jump-ups, lemon balm, lamb’s ears, mophead hydrangea, pansy, parsley, snapdragons and wax begonias.

Shade-loving vines include creeping myrtle, fuschsia, peppermint, sweet autumn clematis, Carolina Jasmine, honeysuckle and moon vine.

 

*WINDOW BOX CARE.

**If making wood planters, cedar and redwood are the best choices because of their rot-resistant qualities. They also look good with any type of house no matter if left natural or stained.

**Always remember to use some type of lining, whether it is liners made specifically for window boxes or just some heavy plastic.

**Drainage is vey important, if the roots become saturated, you can have root rot.

**Use standard potting soil or make your own by combining soil, sawdust, sand and bone meal. If you are growing edible plants, add some compost. Fill boxes with soil to within an inch of the top and make sure the plants fit securely. During the season, if the dirt settles, add more.

**Cultivate soil regularly so water will penetrate it and not run off. Fertilize every couple weeks and water every couple of days.

Window boxes are a simple way to add color and charm to your existing home without going to a lot of added expense or work. In this case, a little effort can equal a lot of pleasure.

 

 

INVITE THE BEES

 

 

Farmers, gardeners and conservationists all sometimes clash on various issues such as pesticide use, wild animal control and other topics. However, one thing that we are all in agreement on is that we need to protect and preserve our bee population.

Although bees are not our only pollinators, they are certainly at the top of the list. Flies, beetles, moths, bats, butterflies, wasps, birds, ants and others do their part too. Our whole ecosystem depends on pollination; flowers and plants need it to set seed, we need seed to produce crops, crops to harvest to feed us all.

Pollination is vital to nearly 250,000 species of flowering plants that depend on the transfer of pollen from the flower anther, the part of the plant where pollen is produced to the stigma, the part where the pollen germinates to produce crops. Production of more than 90 crops depend on bee pollination and this translates directly to more dollars for farmers. Bees have been hailed as “flying dollar bills buzzing over Unites States crops” because their pollination accounts for 15 billion dollars in added crop value.

 

Of course, from the bees’ point of view, their main concern is not contributing to our resources, but rather it is in protecting their own. Most of a bee’s life is spent collecting pollen, their source of protein needed to sustain them and to raise their young.

 

 

When a bee lands on a flower, tiny hairs on their legs and body attract pollen grains through electrostatic forces. Stiff hairs on their legs let them groom the pollen into specialized pockets on their body and carry it back to the nest.

Individual bees focus on one kind of flower at a time, making it more likely that the pollen from one flower will be transferred to another flower of the same species by a particular bee. Many plant varieties require this kind of pollination, known as cross pollination, to produce viable seeds. Thus, we have healthy plant reproduction.

In the United States there are over 4000 species of native bees. Contrary to popular belief, the honey bee is not native to North America. European settlers brought the first colony of honey bees to Virginia in 1622 and it has since become our most common pollinator and the most important bee to domestic agriculture. One third of our food comes from crops pollinated by bees.

Honey bees produce six products, honey, beeswax, pollen, royal jelly, propolis and venom which are valued for their nutritional and medicinal properties. The USDA estimates that bees made 157 million pounds of honey in 2019. Beeswax is used in the production of candles, some artists’ materials, leather and wood polishes and in pharmaceuticals as a binding agent and time release mechanism.

However, despite these impressive contributions, the greatest importance of honey bees is their work as pollinators, estimated to be 10 to 20 times the total value of honey and beeswax combined. On top of this, wild bees play a vital role also. The supply pollinator services of the Eastern bumblebee are valued at $390 per acre alone while wild and domestic bees contribute an average of $1215 in pollinator services per acre of crops.

As important as these buzzing little friends are though, both wild and managed bee communities have been declining over the last half of the century because of increased pesticide use, changes in climate and changes in land use resulting in less food and nesting resources for them.

This is sad news for all of us because, if we lose them, we lose our crops and food supply. The good news is that, by making a few small changes, we can make a big difference in their survival. Just a few ways that we can help the little fellas and invite them to our yards and gardens are:

 

PLANT THE RIGHT PLANTS

 

*All bees rely on blooming plants to feed on and they need a steady supply from spring through fall. Hands down, perennials provide the highest quality of nectar and pollen. However, many of them have short blooming times whereas annuals bloom all season long. To ensure color all season for you and all- season food for the bees, plant a mixture of perennials and annuals.

*They have a hard time finding food in late winter and early spring. Plant trees and shrubs like redbuds, willows, maples and vernal witch hazel to flower early. Early blooming fruits like cherry, plum, raspberry and blackberry give you a jump on fresh fruits and also provides bees with food. Don’t forget perennials like larkspur, dianthus, wild columbine and spring-flowering bulbs.

*Mid-season coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, cleome, bee balm and daisies are just a few that fill the gap between spring and fall. Late season dahlias and asters finish the year.

*Herbs like sage, thyme, lavender, chives, dill, basil, oregano, rosemary and mint flower and will also drive pollinators to other surrounding plants.

*They prefer some types of flowers over others. Some have long tongues and can easily access nectar in tubular-shaped blossoms like honeysuckle and columbine. Those with shorter tongues like daisies, asters and sunflowers. The smaller bees prefer smaller flowers and vice versa. By planting a mixture of different flower shapes and sizes, you will attract different bee species to your space.

*Double flowering varieties have less pollen and are harder for bees to access. Zinnias are a good example. They come in single and double flowering heads and the single ones are much easier for bees to feed on.

*Flower color matters too. Bees can’t see red; hummingbirds and butterflies are more drawn to red blooms. Bees navigate to purple, blue, white and yellow blooms.

*Pollinators like native plants over non-native ones because they have co-evolved together. Native varieties are adapted to a region and are usually low maintenance and easy to find. Nativars, which are fancy forms of native plants, are not as attractive or useful to bees as other species. Some cultivars, over time, have lost fragrance, pollen, nectar and the flower shape that pollinators need. Remember, too, that hybridized plants that are bred to be sterile or not to contain nectar are useless to bees.

 

SHELTER

Rolling vegetation and stumps are great places for bees to set up housekeeping. If you can, leave some meadow-like spaces in the yard and garden. If you plant white clover, you not only provide housing for them, but also another food supply. Small brush piles with leaves provide a good place for bees to make a hive. Plain patches of dirt that can become mud with rains are good for the species that live underground.

Check with your local county extension office because many regions have programs that will offer compensation for setting space aside and planting a pollinator garden.

You can also build or buy special houses for bees.

 

WATER

Bees need water to drink and to bathe in too. When nature doesn’t provide water, people often think they can use their bird baths. Bees have a hard time with these because of the deep water. They need something shallower so they can walk to the edge. Lining the edges of a wide shallow dish with flat rocks and then pouring water over the rocks into the dish works fine.

Bees are largely responsible for one out of every three bites of food we eat, the fruits and vegetables we grow, the abundance of farmers’ crops and the flowers that make our world more delightful. It only takes a little effort to attract and feed these small creatures that are so vital to our very lives. Let’s invite bees to co-exist with us!