Plants and
animals are more alike than different. The biggest likeness is that we all like
to eat and receive good nourishment and so do plants. Fertilizing is feeding
plants, whether it be natural or chemical.
I like to
use the word natural instead of organic when referring to fertilizer because,
in this department, organic often gets a bad rap. Folks tend to think that
feeding plants organically means dealing with weeds and insects and that it
plain won’t work. On the other hand, assuming that just because it is natural
it will always work is wrong too. There is a place for both natural and
chemical fertilizers in our gardens.
Both
synthetic and natural fertilizers supply plants with the nutrients that they
need to grow healthy, strong and disease-free. However, they supply those
nutrients in different ways.
When buying
commercial fertilizer, you notice three numbers written on the bag that refer
to the ratios of the big three nutrients that make up fertilizer; N for
nitrogen, P for phosphorous and K for potassium or potash. These are the macro
nutrients and in lesser amounts, most fertilizers contain calcium, magnesium
and sulfur.
Nitrogen
helps plants grow large and lush whereas phosphorous helps develop strong,
healthy root systems. Potassium helps with plant growth, protein production,
plant hardiness, disease and insect resistance and efficient water use.
Synthetic
and natural fertilizers both have these nutrients, the difference is from where
they are sourced. Chemical, or inorganic, fertilizers are manufactured
artificially and contain minerals or synthetic chemicals typically made from
petroleum or natural gas. Natural fertilizers contain only plant or animal-based
materials that are by-products or end products of naturally occurring processes
like leaves, manure and compost.
There are
advantages and disadvantages to both kinds, so deciding on your method of plant
nutrition has to do with your long-term goals. Synthetic fertilizer is like the
fast food of plant nourishment. It is like steroids for plants. Plants look
great, grow fast and have enhanced colors but are less healthy. This rapid
release of highly concentrated nutrients increases the risk of burning the
plants and the excess may leach into the soil. It also contains no
micronutrients.
Natural
fertilizers rely on soil organisms to break down the organic matter so
nutrients are released slower to the plants. Natural also contains
micronutrients for plants which are like vitamins and minerals for people.
Plants, like us, need these in small amounts and without them our bodies and
plants can shut down.
This pairing
of macro and micro nutrients means better nutrition for plants and soil. Also,
the slow release method means less chance of nutrient leaching and over time,
it improves the texture of the soil and the amount of beneficial bacteria.
Besides
taking longer for plants to be able to utilize natural fertilizer, the other
down side is you don’t know exactly how much of each nutrient you are providing
like you do with commercial fertilizers. It is a by guess and by golly method
until you learn by trial and error.
To get the
three macronutrients, natural fertilizers often make use of alfalfa and
cottonseed meal and fish emulsion for nitrogen, bone meal or rock phosphate for
the phosphorous and kelp or granite meal for the potassium.
Natural
fertilizers are can be purchased in select places but you can also make your
own. The best part about this is you can utilize things that you probably
already toss anyway. Here is a list of the most common household all-purpose
natural fertilizers:
AQUARIUM
WATER: Fish waste makes good
fertilizer, however only use from fresh water, not salt water.
BANANAS:
Planting the peel alongside plants adds potassium. These are especially good
for roses and tomatoes.
BLACKSTRAP
MOLASSES: This gooey liquid is an
excellent source of many different nutrients that plants need including carbon,
iron, sulfur, potash, calcium, manganese, potassium, copper and magnesium. It
feeds the beneficial bacteria which keep the plants and soil healthy. It can be
mixed with other all-purpose fertilizers. A good mixture is 1 cup Epsom salts,
1 cup alfalfa meal put in four gallons of water and then add 1 tablespoon of
blackstrap molasses.
COFFEE
GROUNDS: Used grounds contain
nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash. Use this on plants that like more acidic
environments like blueberries, evergreens, azaleas, roses, avocados and fruit
trees. Be sure and let it dry then scatter as a mulch. Avoid using them wet as
this could lead to mold.
COOKING
WATER: When you cook food, nutrients
are released in the water. Boil potatoes, vegetables, eggs…even pasta and let
the water cool and use for plants.
CORN
GLUTEN MEAL: This is a by-product of
the wet milling process for corn. It is used as an organic pre-emergent
herbicide and also as a natural fertilizer that is 10% nitrogen. It only works
as a herbicide before seeds germinate, it won’t harm the plants after they have
sprouted. Spread a thin layer, then scratch it into the top one inch of the
soil and then plant veggie starts inside the treated area for optimum nitrogen
benefit.
EGG
SHELLS: These are a great source of
calcium which plants need for cell and root growth and plant growth removes
large quantities from the soil. Simply crush them into a powder and then
sprinkle around your plants, especially tomato plants.
EPSOM
SALTS: Mix one tablespoon in one
gallon of water and spray directly on the foliage once a month to add magnesium
and sulfur. You will be rewarded with larger flowers and fruits since magnesium
helps plants take in nutrients.
WOOD ASH: Hardwood ashes are best and be sure there is
no charcoal or lighter fluid in them. They provide potassium and calcium
carbonate but they are alkaline so don’t place them where you want acidic soil.
GELATIN: Yep, you read that right. A great source
of nitrogen, simply put one package (unflavored) in one cup hot water and then
add three cups cold water. When it is cool, pour on the soil directly around
plants once a month. This is great for houseplants.
GREEN
TEA: Make a weak solution by placing
one tea bag in two gallons of water and using it every four weeks.
HORSE
FEED: The magical ingredient here is
molasses. Either sprinkle it on top of the soil or combine it with water or
other organic fertilizer.
MATCHES: Use the old fashioned, easy strike kind to
get a good dose of magnesium. Either place the whole match in the hole with the
plant or soak the matches in water since the magnesium will dissolve in the
water.
POWDERED
MILK: Another good source of
calcium, just place in the hole before planting.
These
natural items all work wonders but, if you want to make a “quick fix
fertilizer,” take a one gallon milk jug and add one teaspoon baking powder, one
teaspoon ammonia, 3 teaspoons instant iced tea mix, three teaspoons blackstrap
molasses, three tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup bone scraps (any
bones, fish, chicken, etc.), and one crushed egg shell or one-half dried banana
peel. Fill the jug with water, rain water if you have it, and let it set in the
sun one hour. Use it full strength.
The main
thing to remember whether using homemade or commercial fertilizers is that less
is more. If you use too much or too strong of an application, you can do more
harm than good by harming the plants’ roots. Leaves will curl and fall from the
stem. Remember, you can always add more, but you can’t take away.
With any
fertilizer, the goal is to help plants be as healthy as they can be and healthy
soil equals healthy and happy plants!
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