FALL GARDEN CHORES

 

 

Although the garden is a labor of love, there is always a sigh of relief when another season closes. It can be tempting, after all the weeding, nurturing and canning, to just close the gate and wait for spring to get back at it.

However tempting that may be, there are certain fall garden chores that are inevitable and others that…well, just make life easier in the spring.

  

DIGGING BULBS. After the deluge of vegetables that seem to all ripen at once is over, it is so easy to think that your gardening duties are done for the season. I can’t think of the times that I have forgotten to dig my bulbs that can’t over-winter.

 

Bulbs like gladiolus, cannas and dahlias need to be dug before the ground freezes. Ideally, it is best to dig those after the first frost but you can also dig them earlier provided you let them dry well in a well-ventilated area before storing.

 

GATHERING SEEDS. Seeds should be collected after the plants are done producing and when they are dry. Many times, they will begin falling out of their pods when the time is right. They should always be collected on a dry, sunny day.

Vegetables go to seed soon after they are done producing. Seeds may then be collected or you can dry the whole vegetable and then remove the seeds.

Flowers are the same. I like to wait until after the first frost to collect mine since frost doesn’t hurt the seeds and it is easier to collect them without so much foliage in the way. For flowers like zinnias and marigolds, the frost will speed up the drying process so there is less chance of the seeds molding.

 

GET RID OF PROBLEM WEED ROOTS. After foliage has died down, it’s time for us to get down….literally and dig out the roots of those problem weeds. I’m talking plants like morning glories that are so invasive that they wrap themselves around all the other garden inhabitants. Now is the time to get them out before they drop all their seeds. Be sure to dig down and get to the root of the problem.

Remember to get rid of as many weeds as possible. Leaving them and tilling them in will only re-plant the seeds.

 

PLANTING A COVER CROP. Although somewhat controversial, many believe that a fall cover crop will power the soil, stop weeds and will fill the garden with a lush, protective carpet of greenery. It is a tool to help stop erosion and will protect the soil from winter’s harsh winds, sleet and snow.

It also rejuvenates and revitalizes the garden’s tired soil by helping to fix nitrogen levels. In the spring when the cover crop dies down, its foliage and roots break down, adding valuable nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Cover crops’ roots go deep  which helps in loosening and aerating soil.

It will also help to prevent next year’s weeds in the garden by snuffing out weeds that may just be getting a start. Cover crops can also shield the garden from weed seeds that winds bring in and stop them from germinating.

There are many varieties of cover crops to choose from, depending on your specific needs. Winter rye is a good all-around choice since it acts as an ultimate organic fertilizer.

In spring, you have your choice of tilling it down when it dies off or mowing over it a few times and then planting.

 

TILLING. This is the big one. Some insist on waiting until spring and others like to get it done in the fall. Fall tilling is about opening the soil to incorporate amendments, relieve compaction, increase oxygen and improve drainage.

 

First and foremost, usually there is more time in the fall to get this done. There are usually many dry and sunny fall days to get the earth turned, you don’t have to rush and you can do it on your schedule. If you wait until spring, you are definitely at the mercy of the weather. It is usually muddy from snow melt and spring rains. Sometimes you just can’t get in to work the ground as soon as you would like to get the plants out.

 

If you deep till in the fall, all that is required in the spring is a single tilling before planting. In the fall, the earth is already warm and workable whereas in spring, it is slow to warm up and resists tilling well.

 

This is the time to add amendments evenly over the soil before turning the soil. Remember, soil is a living organism, full of natural fungi, worms and microbes. Plant roots communicate and encourage each other to grow by sharing resources. This is how forests survive and thrive.

Spread lots of manure and compost to feed these microorganisms which help the soil to remain open and well-drained. Adding this organic matter in the fall gives it the entire winter to break down.

After adding the amendments, till them in, the deeper the better. First, rough till in both directions. This will leave the surface irregular with large chunks of earth. These clods will erode and carry the amendments down deep. After tilling, mulch with shredded leaves, hay or straw to prevent erosion. The ground will flatten by spring.

Be careful to not overdo the tilling. Too much will wreak havoc on the earthworms and other beneficial organisms.

The University of Minnesota recommends fall tilling if you plant mainly summer and fall crops. It takes months for the nutrients to break down, spread through the soil and to become available for plants to absorb. It also turns weed seeds closer to the surface, thus letting exposure to the harsh winter elements kill them so they can’t sprout in the spring. Tilling also breaks up the root system of these seeds.

Loosening the soil also lets oxygen reach deeper down while at the same time, it destroys pests that are present in the soil. Many of their larvae burrow deep down and tilling exposes them to winter temperatures.

All of these chores sound like a lot to do in the fall. However, when spring rolls around, you will thank yourself for tackling them in the fall.